Crapemyrtle 101

General Information on Crapemyrtles:

Latin Name: Lagerstroemia indica and Lagerstroemia fauriei (numerous others, but these are the two most commonly used)

Common Name: Crapemyrtle, Crape Myrtle, Crepemyrtle, Crepe Myrtle

Size and Growth: Fast growing, deciduous tree with hundreds of varieties ranging in height from less than 5’ to over 50’.

Zone: 6 – 10, but prefers 7 – 9

Growth Habit: Single or multi-trunk; depending on variety, can be a shrub or tree. Typically used as a tree.

Flower Color and Timing: Numerous shades of white, pink, purple, lavender, and red; blooming all summer long (June – September), but depending on Zone and variety, may bloom as early as May and as late as first frost.

Bark: grey to a vibrant cinnamon, often with a peeling effect adding to the dramatic look.

Fall Color: yellow, orange, and red depending on the variety.

Cultural Conditions: Crapemyrtles thrive in hot, humid, sunny conditions and need well drained soil. During establishment, Crapemyrtles need frequent watering (1 – 2 times per week) from Mother Nature, irrigation, or a good old-fashioned hose.

Some Popular Crapemyrtle Cultivars: 

• Tuscarora – Pink
• Natchez - White
• Muskogee – Lavender
• Tuskegee - Pink
• Red Rocket - Red
• Sioux – Pink
• Pink Velour - Pink
• Catawba – Purple
• Tonto – Red
• Zuni – Lavender
• Chickasaw – Pink
• Razzle Dazzle – white, pink, and red

For more detailed information, visit: https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/databases/crapemyrtle/crape_myrtle_varieties_byheight.html

Selecting the Right Crapemyrtle:

Selecting the right type of Crapemyrtle can be overwhelming, but consider the following factors when making your choice:

• First of all, is a Crapemyrtle the right tree for the space – consider size and cultural conditions such as sun, soil and climate (see above).
• What color do you want? White, pink, lavender, purple, red?
• What size do want? Don’t pick a large tree for a small or tight space, that’s a bad combination and may result in Crape Murder. Crapemyrtles range from dwarf sizes less than five feet to large trees over 50’ and many options in-between.
• Single or multi-trunk?
• Is the bark color and characteristic important to you? Varies from grey to vibrant cinnamon.
• Inspect the trunks and branches for damage and reject trees with scarred trunks or broken branches.

Planting a Crapemyrtle:

Planting a Crapemyrtle properly is extremely important to its establishment and long-term health. The proper installation methods are the same or very similar to most types of trees. Begin by selecting a location that is sunny (6+ hours a day) with well-drained soil. Be sure to select a variety that can grow into the desired space.

Installation: Dig a hole that is two to three times the diameter of the root ball or container. This allows the roots to more easily grow out from the root ball as it establishes. Planting depth is critical to the tree’s survival. Although it is recommended to dig a hole two to three times as wide as the root ball, the depth of the hole should only be deep enough to ensure that the top of the tree’s root ball is even with or no greater than 1” higher than the existing grade. Tree roots need water and oxygen, so if the tree is planted too low, the tree may die due to lack of oxygen. If planted too high, the tree may die due to lack of water. Once the root ball is in the hole, back fill the hole and ensure that no air pockets exist. Soil amendments can be mixed in with the backfill, but aren’t required for Crapemyrtles, unless you are planting in very sandy or heavy clay type soil. If that’s the case, organic soil amendments are recommended.

Watering: Thoroughly water the tree immediately after installation and approximately one to two times per week thereafter for at least a month. Monitor the tree and continue supplemental water as needed. Soil types, time of year, rainfall, irrigation, etc. are all factors that will determine how long and at what frequency the tree will need supplemental water.

Fertilizer: An even blend (10-10-10 or similar) of a slow-release granular fertilizer should be applied on top of the soil before mulch is applied to the tree ring. Follow up fertilizations should continue every six to twelve months depending on soil type, rainfall, irrigation, etc. beginning in April or May.

Mulch: Mulch is recommended to cover the root ball and surrounding area (tree ring). Mulch helps to reduce weeds, retain moisture, and protect the tree trunk(s) from mowers and weedeaters.

Initial Pruning: Finally, a very light pruning may be required after installation to remove broken or damaged branches. You may also want to eliminate crossing or redundant branches.

Pruning a Crapemyrtle:

Contrary to popular belief, Crapemyrtles do not need to be heavily pruned, or at all for that matter. Crapemyrtles that need to be pruned, should be pruned in late winter BEFORE new bud growth begins. Late January and February are target months to complete Crapemyrtle pruning, but geographic location and climate will dictate exact timing. Reasons to prune Crapemyrtles include:

• Dead or damaged wood removal
• Eliminate crossing or rubbing branches
• Remove redundant branches
• Elevation pruning (limbing-up) to provide clearance underneath – safety, sidewalks, windows, etc.
• Sucker growth removal
• Seed pod removal - seed pods may be removed after the blooms are spent, but it is not required. On large trees, this is extremely labor intensive and generates a lot of debris. However, seed pod removal may increase summertime blooms.

Crape Murder and Recovering from Crape Murder:

Crape Murder is a crime! If you are visiting this site, you probably already know what Crape Murder is. If you’re still not sure, take a look at our gallery. In short, Crape Murder is the unnecessary and destructive practice of topping, hacking, and maiming Crapemyrtles. Unfortunately, you don’t have to look very far for prime examples. Crape Murder can occur anytime of the year, but is most prevalent during late winter and early spring. It occurs every year in your neighborhood and at retail centers, office parks, resorts, and hotels across the country. Homeowners, landscape companies, and even tree care companies commit Crape Murder.

Why does Crape Murder occur? Although there is not a good reason to commit Crape Murder, below is a list of common responses to why it happened:

• The client asked me to do it (then educate the client on proper tree pruning practices)
• It grows back every year so it must be ok (if you cut off your arm, you’ll probably live but that doesn’t make it a good idea – oh, and your arm won’t grow back so please don't cut it off!)
• Everyone else does it (so what!)
• It won’t flower next summer if it doesn’t get cut way back (yes it will!)
• The tree is getting too big (why was it planted there in the first place? Can it be relocated? You can reduce the height without hacking the tree or committing Crape Murder)

It is possible to recover from Crape Murder. Patience and strong tree pruning experience is required. Depending on the severity of the damage, recovery may take a single growing season, or it may take several years of “recovery pruning”. Remember, when pruning a tree or shrub, you can always take more off, but once you make a cut, you can never put it back. So, it’s always a good idea to start slow and small. Frequently step back away from the tree as you prune so you can see it from where it will be seen vs. up close and personal.

Pests, Diseases, and Other Issues with Crapemyrtles:

Crapemyrtles are generally easy to maintain, tough trees. Below are some pests and diseases worth noting:

• Japanese Beetles – trap and/or treat with insecticide
• Aphids – treat with insecticide
• Lace Bugs – treat with insecticide
• Sooty Mold – by-product of insects’ sugary secretions
• Powdery Mildew – treat with fungicide
• Leaf Spot – treat with fungicide